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Thread: Gun Safes

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by ridgewaybodies View Post
    ...One ironic thing is, I don't store my target rifles in the safe. I keep them in cases with the muzzle pointing down slightly. This keeps any solvents from entering the action. Delicate triggers don't like solvent...
    I think you and Bob are suggesting something I'm confused about. I assume rifles are cleaned in a manner similar to what I do for my handguns, using Hoppe's, and when finished, coating everything with oil to protect the surface and prevent rust. From what you're saying, when the rifles are in their cases, they should be pointing down. Also, you're suggesting that when people buy a "gun safe" in which to keep their rifles, the rifles should be stored elsewhere, for the reasons you noted.

    First, is it really an issue when cleaning rifles to NOT have too much oil left on them, because it might eventually get down into the action? Second, if this is true, why not store the rifles in the safe, but pointing down? more thing I'm just learning about from what you've written. Last, when you refer to "solvents", are you referring to Hoppe's? If this is a problem, is there something better for people to use?

  2. #22
    By all means I don't mean you store all rifles elsewhere. I just don't store my target rifles in my safe is because I clean over a course of several days. I may leave copper/carbon solvent in the bore to let it work. I just don't want that stuff creeping into my action over the course of a day or two. Once finished with cleaning, I run a wet patch of Hoppes/kroil through the bore and leave it sit. There again, I don't want any solvent running into my action if stored muzzle upright. Its such a thin coating that i doubt will creep anywhere, i just dont want to chance it with my target guns. I'm just super anal and meticulious with my target rifles. I look at them as precision instruments. You don't have to follow what I do with my target guns. I have my own paticular processes with them, lol

    My hunting guns are different...they get stored upright in the safe. When I have them in a case, I could care less what way the muzzle faces. I just don't douse the bore with so much solvent that it drips out.

    As for oil on a normal hunting gun or hand gun, its fine. Just don't douse it to the point its dripping. Thin coating is fine. Alot of its just common sense...and there are many ways to clean. Just develop one in which you think works and stick with it.

    Solvent wise....there are tons of stuff out there that works well. Try a couple and see what you like and works for you. Some of the stuff I use includes, TM, Butches Bore Shine, Patch Out, Bore Tech, Hoppes, etc. They all work and Hoppes is a fine solvent.
    Last edited by ridgewaybodies; 08-05-2011 at 09:31 PM.

  3. #23
    I'm guessing a lot of other people will benefit from this discussion, but my search came to an end. A local lock and key shop sells and leases safes for various purposes. They had one come in off lease in the recent past, and just put it up for sale. It had been used for storing jewelry, so it was designed and built to those specifications.

    Most of what you guys have been telling me (and what I've been reading) are what I'd like them to be. It's not "perfect", but it's a reasonable compromise. The fire rating is 30 minutes at 1200 degrees, which I guess is reasonable. At the insistence of the company that leased the safes, it has a combination lock, and also a key lock, which locks the combination lock. (They told me this is NOT to be used to lock the safe, only to prevent other people who know the combination from being able to open it.) It's 60" high, 24" wide, and 20" deep (including the handle). The steel is 12-gauge, which apparently is acceptable (1/4" would be better!!). It has "relockers", so if anyone tries to force it open, spring loaded devices will completely lock it, even if they were to bust the lock apart. It was made by Cannon, but it's not a standard Cannon safe - it was built to specifications set by the jewelry company. As it was explained to me, the people who lease the safe wanted a different style, with a door that opens fully (180 degrees) rather than only 90 degrees... but the Cannon hinge design makes the safe somewhat water resistant. It has a hole for an electrical dehumidifier. The price was $750 plus what I considered a very low delivery fee. Here's a couple of photos:

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    Between the articles I read, and the information from you guys, I think I know a few hundred times more about safes than I did a week ago. Thanks!!

    I don't expect any problems in the future - I would make a very poor target for a would-be thief. I don't really have that much. Just the same, there are people from the building who have access, and especially after a relative of mine started beating on my head, I guess I accept that having handguns around means it's only right to keep them under lock and key.

    As to the interior, they will either leave me with the shelving, or build me a "gun interior" at no extra charge. I figure I can take a few shelves out if I want to store rifles, and I think the shelves are a lot more useful to me than tiny ones with room for rifles on either side.

    One last thing - Cannon makes an accessory for any safe - it's something that mounts on the back of the door, and uses velcro to attach all sorts of things to the back of the door, from guns to whatever.... I didn't buy it - I figure the idea is pretty good, but maybe there are better ones on the market.

  4. #24
    Bob Malphurs
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike View Post
    One last thing - Cannon makes an accessory for any safe - it's something that mounts on the back of the door, and uses velcro to attach all sorts of things to the back of the door, from guns to whatever.... I didn't buy it - I figure the idea is pretty good, but maybe there are better ones on the market.
    One thing about the door accessory need room between the door and the shelves My friend has one on his that he's able to store about 8 rifles; of course the shelves aren't as wide because of it!

    I missed a good deal 2 weekends ago while out of town! A neighbor had a big yard sale...moving to Hawaii and selling off everything in the house. Had a Liberty Centurion gun safe he let go for $200! From his description it was about the size of mine (30x24x59)
    Last edited by Bob Malphurs; 08-15-2011 at 10:40 AM.

  5. #25
    That would have made someone an EXCELLENT deal!!! I guess not "would have", but "did". Too bad you didn't get a shot at it (pun intended...) :-)

  6. #26
    Bob Malphurs
    Guess "right time at the right place" applies here! And money on hand helps too! Seems I always either have one or the other!

    They deliver your safe yet?

  7. #27
    Not yet - they're supposed to deliver it on Friday.

    I guess I should be asking them this question, but maybe you'll know it - can you set combination safe numbers yourself, or do you need it to be done before the safe is delivered? I'm guessing it's user selectable, as otherwise you could never change it if you needed to do so...

  8. #28
    Bob Malphurs
    You can change combinations your self, probably they will do it on delivery. Here's a video how it's done. You must have the "key" for it, make sure it comes with the safe!

  9. #29
    Thanks Bob! I had no idea of any of that. (I assumed someone had to go inside the lock from the back side and do a lot more work - it's a lot easier than I expected!). Yes, I will make sure they don't forget the "key".

    Is this how all combination locks are done, or do they each have different methods?

  10. #30
    I bought a Homak security cabinet for my stuff. Didn't have the bucks for a big safe and at the time not enough quality firearms to justify it. It's about time to get a real safe now that the money spent is worth the investment.
    About 1/2 way down the page is the double door one I have. I have it lagged to the floor and wall. A dessicant bag in the bottom of both sides.

    Uline sells the desiccant bags.

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